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At Home in the Modern World
Modern Kitchens
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When these full-time foodies renovated their Chicago condo, getting the kitchen right meant finding the right kitchen island. Editor-in-chief Sam Grawe invites himself over to sample the fruits of their labor.
Story by Sam Grawe Photos by Matthew Williams
Project: Заекson Residence Location: Chicago, IL
With SOM's Willis Tower looming in the background , a double decker Metra train passes by the University Station building, a former produce storage facility in Chicago's Pilsen neighborhood. Chelsea and Arthur Jackson (opposite) renovated their fourth-floor condominium to include a custom Bulthaup kitchen.
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The combination living, kitchen, and dining area (opposite) hosts a Modemica Case Study day bed, an tames Aluminum Group chair and ottoman from Chicago vintage retailer Pegboard Modern, ArtemideTs Tolomeo Mega floor lamp, and a Big Sur Small dining table from Crate and Barrel. The Duetto sideboard and cocktail table were hand-built by designer Sandra Capasso for her thesis project. Arthur installed shelving from Ikea and poured a cast-in-place concrete shelf to create a small media nook (left). He carved the Indiana limestone -clad bar out of an awkward space in the hallway (right).
Czechs who settled there in the late 19th century. As a testament to the shifting sands of American immigration, today Mexicans, who have transformed the corridors of 18th and 26th streets into vibrant, busy districts, largely inhabit the area,The street food vendors,lively markets, and inexpensive restaurants were part of the attraction for Chelsea and Arthur Jackson, who moved here in 2006.
They were also wooed by a condominium in a former produce depot between the railroad tracks that was affordable and conveniently situated just minutes away from their respective workplaces. Chelsea works as the editorial director for university publications just a few blocks south on Mies's iconic Illinois Institute of Technology campus. Arthur is the chef at Bijan's Bistro, a popular restaurant that serves tasty, unfussy American fare to loyal customers 365 days a year. Tonight, however, the pair has graciously agreed to serve as my hosts for dinner.
I head through the seemingly endless interior hallway to the westernmost unit on the fourth floor, where I'm greeted by a tawny flash of fur that goes by the name of Pork Chop, followed close behind by the Jaeksons. If naming a dog Pork Chop is any indication, the couple is really, really into food.
Chelsea maybe an editor by day, but she's also a certified pastry chef with a serious baking habit. Arthur leaves behind at work whatever limitations are imposed by sticking to a standard menu. As I soon learn, the pair has transformed their abode into a striking laboratory for culinary exploration.
We tour the 1,000-squa re-foot unit's handful of rooms, and I'm soon sitting kitchenside at a sturdy wooden table looking out on the small deck crowded with the growing season's final offerings. In a hallway space carved out of what was once a closet, Chelsea hovers at the bar preparing a Pilsen-inspired cocktail dubbed El Chingdn (a "cool dude" of mescal, orange and sour orange juice, mescal simple syrup, and homemade chili-infused tequila). After setting out a Little Bloom on the Prairie,a locally produced Camembert-style goat cheese by Prairie Fruits Farm, and some homemade chili jam, Arthur gets to work on the first course—a spit-roasted rack of goat ribs. He slides the meat onto the spit and locks it into place in the Gaggenau oven, and explains the oven's myriad features the way someone might detail the merits of a high-performance German automobile. "I can get heat from above or below, and it has convection. But the spit is my absolute favorite,"!»1
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Arthur slices the goat ribs (above) before applying a fresh pestо made with herbs from the balcony. Pork Chop, the dog (left), has plenty of comfortable places to nap between meals, Arthur created the fresh pumpkin salad (below left) based on farmers' market finds. Among other things, the couple's refrigerator (right } contains garlic scapes, Meyer lemon preserves, Araucana chicken eggs from Chelsea's grandfather's farm, juneberry jam, fresh El Popo tortillas, a ginger beer starter, pickled sour cherries (used in the salad), Tortuga hot sauce, Sriracha, homemade chili relish, and a kombucha mushroom.
he says excitedly. "When we first got it, I would sit here and watch it like a television."
The couple's enthusiasm for foodstuffs is rivaled only, perhaps,by their fondness for modern design. They purchased their condo with a standard build-out but immediately found it unsatisfactoiy. "I asked Chelsea how much drywall dust she would be willing to live with, and if she would be all right with washing dishes in the bathroom," recalls Arthur, "and then started the demo right away" Despite lacking prior experience, he was confident he could tackle the job himself. His father, a bricklayer who built two of their family homes, and his brothers offered tactical and practical support.
Swapping out the rotisserie attachments and replacing the goat rack with a small dish of soon-to-be-roasted hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, Arthur explains how the first order of renovation business was to get rid of the existing floors and kitchen.
The combined kitchen and living area was cramped, and a bulky shoulder-height wall between cooking and seating areas didn't help matters. "We wanted to find a kitchen island that would be light enough to make the room seem large while still»
Foil-wrapped grilled whitefish seasoned with piment d'Espelette makes for an attractive main dish (right). Reflected in the Bulthaup System 20's gleaming stainless steel surface, Chelsea uses a pastry bag to pipe the marsh-mallow kisses onto her s'mores tart.
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to try a hand at cast-in-place concrete. The nook is now a media center, with shelves for cookbooks and a ventilated cabinet for the hi-fi and computer. In the hallway bathroom, hex tiles, marble, and a fuchsia wall came together to create a space worthy of a boutique hotel. Throughout the apartment, small personal touches, like a neatly arranged shelf of curios and a hand-stenciled wall pattern, show the couple's dedication to making the most of their small home.
After a main course of foil packet-grilled Lake Superior whitefish served with piment d'Espelette and assorted fingerling potatoes, dessert presents Chelsea with an opportunity to shine. She fires up a blowtorch and puts the final roast on the marsh-mallow topping of a s'mores tart. "This afternoon we smoked it on the grill to give it a little campfire flavor," she says. As we make our way through the rich treat, I can tell she is already thinking about what she would do differently the next time. It is precisely this willingness to experiment that gives their home its defining characteristic. Perhaps a lifetime spent working with recipes prepared them both well for renovation: First master the fundamentals, and then add your own spin."
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At breakfast, Arthur multitasks while seated at the dining table. He hand-stenciled the pattern on the wall in the background. In the adjacent bedroom (opposite). decorative touches lilce the silver wallpaper and mirrored regency-style side table juxtapose with tiie exposed concrete and duct work. О
standing up to heavy-duty cooking," Chelsea notes. Calls to kitchen retailers were fruitless until Arthur reached the Bulthaup showroom, where the staff suggested he come check out a floor model of the discontinued System 20 kitchen.The stainless steel island,with its precise profile and gas cooktop, was exactly what the couple was after, and they bought it on the spot.A full Bulthaup kitchen—completed with components from the B3 range—would soon become the centerpiece of their new home.
As Arthur attends to the next course, a salad of the aforementioned mushrooms, mustard greens, pickled sour cherries, Parmesan, and shaved fresh pumpkin, I contemplate the movements of the pair as they maneuver in their space.The scene is oddly reminiscent of a highly choreographed action sequence, where contact is threatened but always narrowly avoided. The galley space is tight, but some clever decisions regarding placement of key items keep Chelsea and Arthur out of each other's way as they prep, cook, and clean up.
Over the meal, Arthur explains how eventually the pair worked their way through the condo project by project, room by room. An awkward corner carved out of the living area offered the perfect location
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Project Runaway
Driven by the death of several appliances, a San Francisco family finds that a spank ing new kitchen delivers a good dose of domestic harmony along with the excuse to execute a complete home makeover.
Story by Deborah Bishop Photos by Leslie Williamson
Project: Bishop / Lieberman Residence Architect: Charles de Lisle Workshop Location: San Francisco, CA
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After my family and I moved back into our San Francisco home following a renovation exile, I couldn't bear to do much more than boil water in the virginal kitchen, for I knew I would never see its like again. When the first hot sprays of oil hit the creamy backsplash and Rorschachs of tomato sauce pooled on the counter, I stood clutching dishcloths and keening like a mourner in a Greek tragedy.
Our new kitchen was spurred by the simultaneous death of three key appliances: the range, the fridge, and the dishwasher. That the 14-year-old stove— a so-called premium brand that cost the equivalent of a decent motorcycle—was beyond repair seemed improbable, but an electric heating mechanism had expired and the company no longer made the part. As the sagging stainless-steel-topped maple cabinets were not up to endeavors such as sequestering compost—and harbored dinosaurs such as a trash compactor—we embraced change. The primary cook in our household, my husband Michael Lieberman, embarked on a hero's quest for a new stove, the central hearth of the modern home.
"I wanted something simple that cooked really well, without a bunch of gadgets, I could never get the heat on our old cooktop high enough, and I had to jerry-rig crazy systems to get it down to a simmer," Michael says, explaining what led him to BlueStar—his gas convection oven, grill, and griddle-equipped holy grail,'1
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Sasha samples berries at the island while Wes, perched on the counter next to Deborah, clutches the whipped cream similar in color to the backsplash, made of traditional Moroccan tiles and available through Emory & Cie-The Sub-Zero beverage chiller (opposite) sits in easy proximity to the lounge area adjacent to the kitchen. Risom lounge chairs were rewoven with cat claw-proof leather strapping after the originals were shredded.
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Vintage pendants (left) cast a soft glow over the island, which contains a Bosch dishwasher. Organization is key; Blum storage systems in the Henry-built drawers (bottom left) keep the whisks from ensnaring the spatulas. Michael (bottom right) tends to his capons in a Big Green Egg. Molteni dining chairs are overseen by "someone's" ancestral portraits (opposite, top). The living room (opposite, bottom) is a melange of vintage Moroccana, a Philip Agee coffee table, the Eames rocker in which Michael was nursed as a tike, and a window seat whose fabric is Paul Smith Stripes for Maharam.
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The company that produces BlueStar has been around since 1880; more recently it set out to create a commercial-style stove for the home—something at once stripped down and pumped up. Slightly less pricey than other premium models, Blue Star's burning rings of fire emit an impressive 22,000 Btus in inferno mode and also offer "an exquisitely low flame," as Michael puts it. (Not to mention there are 190 colors to choose from, which is sort of thrilling, even if, like us, you opt for black.)
During the demise of the previous range, Michael took to cooking the protein course on the back deck, which connects to the kitchen via a flight of outdoor stairs. Here, amid pots of self-sustaining succulents, sits a Big Green Egg and a bag of hardwood charcoal. Based on an ancient Japanese clay cooker called a kamado,the Egg is wrought from a space-agey ceramic that reaches 1,800 degrees Fahrenheit. Fish, chicken, rabbits, and even entire suckling pigs go into its maw, emerging a while later intensely juicy and utterly delicious.
With heat sources in place,! turned for design assistance to Charles de Lisle, who has collaborated with us as first cohabitation, and then children, redefined our needs. The exposed kitchen is the hub of our open-plan house, and I wanted cabinetry crafted along the lines of fine furniture but equipped with the kind of uberfunctionality built into European systems. And, since Michael had declared this to be the "remodel to end all remodels," it had to be easy on the eyes for years to come—"until we die," he intoned.
The primary casework is by Seattle-based Henrybuilt, a company that joins beautifully crafted, customized cabinetry {using woods certified by the Forest Stewardship Council) with refined systems for corralling compost, utensils, pot lids, and the like. Solid bookmarked walnut panels contain the armada of appliances that once lined the counter, and soft-closing drawers inspire a kind of ecstasy.
I spotted the Moroccan backsplash tile in the World of Interiors and was drawn to its irregularity and soft sparkle (the installer, somewhat perturbed, cautioned, "You know, it's not all going to lie flat"). Artifacts such as the Shaws Original handmade fireclay sink, large enough to bathe a farm animal or stash a party's worth of unwashed dishes, are far too heavy to ever move again. And despite my trepidation, Michael and I wanted an old-school counter material, one that would reflect years of gatherings rather than remaining resolutely pristine.The warm brown veining in the Calcutta marble is more compatible with the wood than cooler Carrara, and freckles of mineral deposits set the stage for the mottling to come.
How the rest of the house got roped into makeover madness is a matter of water, dry rot, procreation— and change orders. We'd been dealing with a mysterious leak that would erupt over the sofa, sprouting tributaries and eventually liberating a generous chunk of ceiling. My 3 a.m.Pavlovian response to rain was to race downstairs, move the couch, and►
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The specter of Jeanne Moreau hovers over the playroom (top), which flows into Sasha's room (below). Flanked by vintage Schiaparelli perfume ads, her Blu Dot Modulicious bed conceals six drawers, obviating the need for a dresser. Wes sits at Michael's boyhood Herman Miller Swag Leg desk (opposite), as Sasha peers down from the stairs connecting their rooms, illuminated by a Flos Glo-Ball lamp.
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haul out the stockpot. Eventually, the source was traced to the front deck, which played home to an ever-sodden lawn and overhanging planter. (Reader, how I wish I could refrain from mentioning that these landscape flourishes were the brainstorm of my husband's previous girlfriend.)
Now covered in ipe,the deck overlooks South Park, an oval greensward south of Market Street a few blocks from Jack London's birthplace. Designed during the gold rush to resemble a classic London terrace, some of the gracious villas were reborn as rooming houses after the economic bust of the 1850s. By the 1980s, cab drivers refused to come here; by the '90s it was ground zero for the dot-com boom and bust. Today, the area is an urban mosaic of fancy new infill construction, older residences, architecture offices, businesses such as Twitter, cafes, and single-resident-occupancy hotels.
Our house was one such hotel, converted by Michael from a 27-room, burned-out Victorian rooming house into a single-family, two-bedroom home. Back then, a youngish buck with a yen for open space, he clearly had no conception that our seven-year-old twins, Wes and Sasha, would one day be clamoring for their own rooms. Loudly.
Since the only way to gain a room was to carve it out of an existing space, we claimed the back of my ground-floor office for Wes's bedroom (adieu, Pilates machine). But we wanted him to feel
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connected to the interior of the house. So our friends at Surfacedesign, Inc., Roderick Wyllie and James Lord, devised a way to cut through the wall, joining his room with Sasha's via seven stairs and a Lilliputian doorway leading into their former closet. Shelf- and cubby-endowed maple panels define his room and a small adjacent libraly. And pieces like the George Nelson-designed Swag Leg desk of Michael's boyhood have passed to the next generation.
Finally, since we had to move out anyway,! grabbed the opportunity to spread a little pixie dust on

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