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LITTLE PINK PUPPY


PERKIER THAN A TERRIER

GIRL'S BEST FRIENDS

Spring
INSTRUCTIONS
Please read the following general instructions before starting your project.
How to choose the correct
Children's pattern sizes are primarily chosen according to the child's height, and the pattern measurements are then adjusted to correspond to the child's other body measurements. Adults' sizes are chosen either according to the bust/chest measurement (e.g. blouses, jackets, coats) or the hip measurement (trousers, skirts). Take the measurements on top of thin underwear and compare them with the size chart.You will find detailed instructions for taking meas-urements on the next page.
How to find the pattern pieces on the pattern sheet
An overview of numbered, small-scale pattern pieces and a list of pattern pieces can be found next to the sewing instructions for each design.The appropriate pattern sheet is also stated. On the bottom edge of the pattern sheet, find the number with the correct color for the desired pattern piece and move your finger upward on the sheet until you locate the same number.
Trace the pattern on tissue paper, including all the necessary markings (e.g. grainlines, notches, pocket placements).The markings are also visible on the small-scale patterns next to the instructions. Make all adjustments to the pattern before cutting out the garment pieces.
Patterns
The patterns include hem allowances, button extensions and facings. When cutting out the garment pieces, add seam allowances of approx. I cm (depending on the fabric) to each edge of the pattern.
The position for the first or top buttonhole is marked on the pattern. On blouses and shirts the top
buttonhole on the front is approx. 4 cm from the neck seamline and the bottom buttonhole approx. 10 cm from the hemline.The rest of the buttonholes should be placed at regular intervals (6...9 cm) between these points.
For reasons of clarity, some of the pattern markings (e.g. positions for Velcro tapes and buttons) have only been printed on the smallest-size pattern of the design. Copy these on the pattern size of your choice in the corresponding places, measuring the distance from the pattern edge. Large pattern pieces are printed on the pattern sheet in two parts. Combine parts A and В before cutting out the fabric.
Cutting
Lay out the pattern pieces on a double layer of fabric observing the grain-lines and foldlines. Draw the seam allowances on the fabric with tailor's
chalk.
If you only need to cut a piece out once, observe the pattern markings and cut either on a fold (e.g. back, collar) or from a single layer of fabric (e.g. pocket).
The measurements for garment pieces listed under the heading "Cut also these pieces" (e.g. belt loops, belts) already include seam allowances.
When cutting out the garment, include allowances for fitting adjustments if necessary. Each design includes specific and detailed cutting instructions.
Garment sections to be interfaced are shaded in grey in the overview of small-scale pattern pieces. Knitted and woven interfacings are cut on the grain, while non-woven interfacings may be cut in any direction as they do not have a grain. Interfacing pieces are generally cut adding the same amount of seam allowance (approx. I cm) as on pieces cut from fashion fabric. However, a smaller seam allow-
ance may be used on interfacings for heavy-weight fabrics.
Materials
Fabric requirements are based on a fabric width of 145... ISO cm. Pre-shrink the fabric before cutting either by pre-washing or by steam pressing. If you choose a different fabric from the one suggested in the magazine, allow for matching up patterns and for cutting with nap when calculating the fabric requirement.
Choose the interfacing on the basis of the fashion fabric's color, quality, weight and care instructions.
Since the quality and stretch of elastics vary, check the elastic lengths before sewing.
If a zipper is not available in a desired length, buy a longer zipper and shorten it as shown in the illustration on pattern sheet D.
Sewing
Read through the instructions before you start sewing. If you wish, baste and try on the garment before sewing.To make sewing easier, the instructions have been written on the basis of industrial working methods.The terms "inner'T'outer" and "left'Vright" refer to the garment when worn.
Finish off the construction seams of the garment as you sew, even if the instructions do not specifically mention this.To finish off seams you can either use a serger or a machine zigzag stitch. On knit fabrics, stitch the seams using a machine stretch-stitch or a serger. No separate seam finish is necessary. Seams inside a lined garment do not necessarily have to be finished.
Hems (e.g. at the garment's lower edge or sleeve edges) are made by turning under the seam allowance and topstitching close to the edge. The width of the hem and the seam allowance is given in brackets; for example "sew hem (2 cm + I cm)"
means that the hem allowance is 2 cm and the seam allowance I cm.
Iron the garment seams as you sew and give the garment a final pressing when it is completed.
Practical tips
Gathering: Decrease the upper thread tension and increase the stitch length (stitch length 4...5). Sew two rows of gathering stitches 0.5 cm apart from each other on the right side of the edge to be gathered, placing one row on the seamline and the other within the seam allowance. Leave long thread ends. Gather the fabric by pulling simultaneously on both bobbin threads and spreading the gathers between your fingers evenly over the required length.The gathered edge is stitched in place between the gathering stitches using a regular straight stitch.
Easing: Easing stitches are sewn as gathering stitches but the bobbin threads are pulled just enough to make the edge curve slightly (e.g. in set-in sleeve caps).
Garments lined with knit
When the lining fabric is a knit and the fashion fabric a woven, cut the lining out with considerably narrower seam allowances to keep the lining from showing under the fashion fabric.
The designs, patterns, instructions, photos and articles in this magazine are protected under international copyright laws. Professional, industrial and commercial use of the material and manufacture under license is only possible under a written agreement with the copyright holder. For further information, contact us in writing, address: Studio Tuumat Oy. PL 2216. FIN-96201 Rovaniemi. Finland.
OTTOBRE design® or StudioTuumat Oy has no obligation to compensate for possible financial losses resulting from misprints or other errors on the pattern sheet or in the instructions.
Copyright © Studio Tuumat Oy,
Rovaniemi. Finland
22
MEASURING THE CHILD
For taking the measurements, you'll need a tape measure and a length of firm tape that is placed round the waist.You can sew a waist tape for this purpose of a strip of cotton folded in four (finished width 1.5 cm). Place the tape horizontally round the child's waist and secure with a safety pin.
The child should stand upright with a relaxed posture with arms hanging free at the sides.
The measurements are taken on top of underwear (briefs and a light-weight undershirt) close to the body, yet not too tight. It is advisable to take the measurements in front of a mirror so that you can see the position of the tape measure behind the child.
Height of the child:
With the child standing up with the back and heels against a wall, mark the height at the top of the head on the wall using a straight angle (e.g. a book).The height of the child is the distance measured from the floor to the marking.
Chest measurement:
Horizontal measurement round the body with the tape measure running over the chest and shoulder blades.
Waist measurement:
Measurement round the waist without the waist tape.
Hip measurement:
Horizontal measurement round the seat (the fullest part of the bottom).
Outseam length:
Distance from the waist to the floor measured from the lower edge of the waist tape.
Inseam length:
Distance from the crotch to the floor when the child is standing legs slightly apart with the weight evenly on both feet.
Shoulder width:
Distance from the base of the neck to the top of the arm.
Sleeve length:
Distance from the top of the arm to the wrist measured over the elbow with the arm slightly bent.
Back waist length:
Distance from the most prominent vertebra at the base of the neck to the lower edge of the waist tape.
The measurements in the chart are taken on the body. The patterns include the necessary allowances for ease of movement.
SIZE CHARTS
BABIES 50-92 cm
Height cm 50 56 62 68 74 80 86 92
1. Chest measurement 43 44.5 46 47.5 49 50.5 52 54
2. Waist measurement 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53
3. Hip measurement 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58
4. Sleeve length 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32
5. Inseam length 15 18 21 24 27 30 33.5 37
TODDLERS 92-122
cm
GIRLS AND BOYS
Height cm 92 98 104 110 116 122
1. Chest measurement 54 56 58 60 62 64
2. Waist measurement 53 54 55 56 57 58
3. Hip measurement 58 60 62 64 66 68
4. Back waist length 22.5 24 25 26.5 28 29.5
5. Sleeve length 32 34 36 38 40 42
6. Outseam length 54 58 62 66 70 74
7. Shoulder width 8.0 8.4 8.8 9.2 9.6 10
GIRLS 128-170 cm
Height cm
128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170
1. Bust measurement 66 68 71 73 76 79 82 85
2. Waist measurement 59 61 63 64 66 68 70 72
3. Hip measurement 70 72 75 79 82 85 88 91
4. Back waist length 31 32.5 34 35.5 37 38.5 40 41.5
5. Sleeve length 44 46 48 50 52 54.5 57 59.5
6. Outseam length 78 82 86 90 93.5 97 100.5 104.5
7. Shoulder width 10.4 10.8 11.2 11.6 12 12.4 12.8 13.2
BOYS 128-170 cm
Height cm 128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170
1. Chest measurement 66 68 71 75 78 81 84 87
2. Waist measurement 59 61 63 66 68 70 72 74
3. Hip measurement 70 72 75 78 81 84 87 90
4. Back waist length 31 32.5 34 35.5 37 39 41 43
5. Sleeve length 44 46 49 51.5 54 56.5 59 61.5
6. Outseam length 78 82 86 90 93.5 97 100.5 104
7. Shoulder width 10.4 10.8 11.2 11.6 12 12.5 13 13.5
О
You can find these charts with measurements in inches on page 47.
23
I. "Piparminttu" jersey pinafore dress 62-68-74-80-86-92 cm
Pages 54-55
MATERIALS
- 15-15-15-20-20-20 cm polka-dot, 35-35-40-40-45-45 cm striped and small piece of solid-colored cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30%
- 10 cm ribbing (CO/EL)
- 50 cm clear elastic tape, width 5 mm, Framilon®
- piece of interfacing, Vlieseline G 785
- 3 buttons, о 14 mm
PATTERN PIECES cut
1 front yoke I
2 front skirt panel I
3 back yoke I
4 back skirt panel I
5 trim piece I
6 neckline binding* I
7 armhole binding* 2
PATTERN SHEET A red
CUTTING
Cut trim piece from solid-colored, yoke panels from polka-dot and skirt panels from striped single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do not add seam allowances to neck edges and armholes.
Cut neckline and armhole bindings from ribbing. ^Pattern pieces for bindings include seam allowances. Check length of bindings before sewing as the stretch and recovery qualities of different rib knits vary.
Note! If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, cut the binding strips in the
width that fits the binder. SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch bindings and bottom hem with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p. 29.
Preparation: Cut pieces of clear elastic tape for gathering skirt panels (measure required lengths on pattern pieces for yoke panels). Pin-mark placement of gathering on top edge of front skirt panel.
Gather skirt panels by stitching pieces of clear elastic tape to right side of their top-edge seam allowances, stretching tapes slightly as you sew.
Pin yokes to skirt panels, right sides together (with clear elastic tapes in between). Stitch seams with straight stitch and finish seam allowances together. Fold seam allowances toward yokes and topstitch seams using presser-foot edge as guide.
Trim piece: Cut interfacing for trim piece and fuse it in place. Sew row of ease-stitching along curved edge of trim piece. Make cardboard template with
pattern piece for trim piece and place it on wrong side of trim piece. Pull up bobbin thread of ease-stitching to turn seam allowance on curved edge over edge of template to wrong side and press. Pin trim piece to garment's front as marked on pattern and stitch it in place close to edge.
Joining: Stitch right shoulder seam. Finish neckline with binding. Stitch left shoulder seam. Finish armholes with binding. Stitch side seams. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem. Neaten armholes and neckline by stitching shoulder and side seam allowances flat across width of binding. Sew on buttons as marked on pattern.
2. "Kamomilla" T-shirt
62-68-74-80-86-92 cm
Pages 53-55
MATERIALS
- 40-45-45-45-50-50 cm printed (A) striped or (B) cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30%
- 10 cm (A) or 20 cm (B) ribbing (CO/EL)
- 60...70 cm clear elastic tape, width 5 mm, Framilon®
PATTERN PIECES cut
1 front I
2 back I
3 sleeve 2
4 neckline binding* I
5 sleeve-edge binding* (A) 2
6 sleeve cuff (B) 2
PATTERN SHEET ,
,orange
ABOUT DESIGN
The sleeves of design A are cropped and the sleeve edges are finished with narrow rib binding. Design В has regular long sleeves as the sleeve edges are finished with wide cuffs.
CUTTING
Cut front and back panels and sleeves from printed (A) or striped (B) single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do not add seam allowances to neck edges of both designs and to sleeve edges of design A.
Cut neckline and sleeve-edge bindings
(A) or neckline binding and sleeve cuffs
(B) from ribbing as indicated on list of pattern pieces. *Pattern pieces for neckline and sleeve-edge bindings include
seam allowances. Check length of bindings and cuffs before sewing as the stretch and recovery qualities of different rib knits vary. Note! If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, cut the binding strips in the width that fits the binder.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch bindings and bottom hem with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p. 29.
Gathering on front panel: Cut 8 cm
piece from clear elastic tape and machine-baste it to front-neckline seam allowance,
placing it on right side between pattern markings. Stretch clear elastic tape slightly as you sew to gather neck edge beautifully.
Shoulder seams and neckline: Cut
pieces of clear elastic tape for stabilizing shoulder seams (measure required lengths of tape on pattern piece and add seam allowances). Machine-baste clear elastic tapes to right side of shoulder seam allowances on back panel.
Sleeve edges, design A: Cut two 1717-18-18-19-19 cm cm pieces from clear elastic tape. Gather sleeve edges by stitching clear elastic tapes to right side of sleeve-edge seam allowances, stretching tapes slightly as you sew. Finish sleeve edges with binding. The width of the sleeve edge, including the seam allowances, should be 18-18-19-19-20-20 cm.
Joining: Stitch right shoulder seam. Finish neckline with binding. Stitch left shoulder seam. Stitch sleeves to armholes, right sides together. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem. Neaten neckline and sleeve edges of design A by stitching shoulder and underarm seam allowances flat across width of binding.
Sleeve edges, design B: Stitch side edges of each sleeve cuff together, right sides facing, to form circles. Fold cuffs ir half, wrong sides together. Turn garment inside out and place sleeve cuffs inside sleeves, right sides together. Pin and stitch cuffs to sleeve edges, stretching them slightly as you sew.
24
3. "Anis" jersey pants 62-68-74-80-86-92 cm pages 54-55
cut
2 2
.orange
CUTTING
Cut pants panels from striped cotton single jersey and bottom-leg cuffs from ribbing as indicated on list of pattern pieces.
PATTERN PIECES
7 pants panel
8 bottom-leg cuff
PATTERN SHEET I SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch waist casing with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine.
Joining: Cut clear elastic tape in half. Gather bottom edges of legs by stitching clear elastic tapes to right side of bottom-
leg seam allowances, stretching tapes slightly as you sew.Cut clear elastic tape in half. Gather bottom edges of legs by stitching clear elastic tapes to right side of bottom-leg seam allowances, stretching tapes slightly as you sew Stitch leg inseams. Stitch crotch seam. Leave pants wrong side out. Stitch side edges of each bottom-leg cuff together, right sides facing, to form circles. Fold bottom-leg cuffs in half.
MATERIALS
- 35-40-45-45-50-50 cm striped cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30%
- 25 cm ribbing (CO/EL)
- 45... 50 cm elastic, width 20 mm
- 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm clear elastic tape, widith 5 mm Framilon®
wrong sides together. Insert cuffs into pants legs, right sides together, and stitch them in place, stretching them slightly as you sew.
Fold and press casing at waist. Stitch casing, leaving opening for inserting elastic into casing. Insert elastic into casing and stitch its ends together. Stitch casing across opening.
4. "Retrokukka" cotton dress
62-68-74-80-86-92 cm
Page 52
Shell
Preshrink the fabrics before cutting.
Cutting lining: Trace pattern pieces for lining from patterns for shell, observing markings on small-scale patterns. Cut yoke panels of lining from floral fabric and front and back panels of lining from cotton batiste. Cut hem bands on true bias from gingham-check fabric.
Cutting shell: Trace separate pattern pieces for lefc and right back panel of shell from pattern for back panel. Cut shell panels from floral cotton poplin as indicated on list of pattern pieces, laying pattern pieces on right side of fabric.
SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams with straight stitch and finish them with serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching close to edges unless otherwise instructed.
Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for shell yoke panels as well as for back placket facings on shell panels and fuse them in place (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns).

MATERIALS
- 55-60-65-70-75-80 cm lightweight floral cotton poplin (CO)
- 40-45-45-50-55-55 cm white cotton batiste (CO)
- 45-50-50-50-50-55 cm gingham-check cotton fabric (CO)
- 15 cm interfacing, Vlieseline H 180
- 4 flat buttons, a 14 mm
Pintucks: Press folds for pintucks on shell front and back panels as marked on pattern. Fold front panel wrong sides together along tuck fold and stitch tuck 5 mm from fold. Stitch a total of nine pintucks on front panel. Fold all tucks in one direction and machine-baste across them along seam allowance on top edge of front panel. Stitch pintucks on back panels in the same way, fold them toward armholes and machine-baste in place. Pockets: Fold, press and stitch hems at opening edges of pockets as marked on pattern. Turn seam allowances on other pocket edges to

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