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GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS


Please read the following
general instructions
before starting your
project.

How to choose the correct size

Adults' sizes are chosen either according
to the bust/chest measurement
(e.g. blouses, jackets, coats) or
the hip measurement (pants, skirts).
Take the measurements on top of thin
underwear and compare them with
the size chart.You will find detailed
instructions for taking measurements
on the next page.

How to find the pattern pieces
on the pattern sheet

An overview of numbered, smallscale
pattern pieces and a list of pattern
pieces can be found next to the
sewing instructions for each design .
The appropriate pattern sheet is also
stated.On the bottom edge of the
pattern sheet, find the number with
the correct color for the desired pattern
piece and move your finger upward
on the sheet until you locate
the same number.

Trace the pattern on tissue paper, including
all the necessary markings
(e.g.grainlines, notches, pocket placements).
The markings are also visible
on the small-scale patterns next
to the instructions. Make all adjustments
to the pattern before cutting
out the garment pieces .

Patterns

The patterns include hem allowances,
button extensions and facings
. When cutting out the garment
pieces, add seam allowances of
approx. I cm (depending on the fabric)
to each edge of the pattern.

For reasons of clarity, some of the
pattern markings (e.g. positions for
Velcro tapes and buttons) have only
been printed on the smallest-size
fliI 34-521

copyright ©
STUDIO TUUMATOY

Rovaniemi, fiNLAND II!I 34-52 1 february 2010

pattern of the design. Copy these on
the pattern size of your choice in
the corresponding places, measuring
the distance from the pattern edge.
Large pattern pieces are printed on
the pattern sheet in two parts. Combine
parts A and B before cutting out
the fabric.

Cutting

Layout the pattern pieces on a double
layer of fabric observing the grainlines
and foldlines. Draw the seam allowances
on the fabric with tailor's
chalk.

If you only need to cut a piece out
once, observe the pattern markings


and cut eitheron afold(e.g.back,collar)
or from a single layer of fabric

(e.g. pocket).

The measurements for garment pieces
listed under the heading "Cut also
these pieces" (e.g. belt loops, belts)
already include seam allowances.

When cutting out the garment, include
allowances for fitting adjustments
if necessary. Each design includes
specific and detailed cutting
instructions.

Garment sections to be interfaced
are shaded in grey in the overview
of small-scale pattern pieces. Knitted
and woven interfacings are cut on the
grain, while non-woven interfacings
may be cut in any direction as they do
not have a grain. Interfacing pieces are
generally cut adding the same amount
of seam allowance (approx. I cm) as
on pieces cut from the fashion fab


ric. However, a smaller seam allowance
may be used on interfacings for
heavy-weight fabrics.

Materials

Fabric requirements are based on a
fabric width of 145 ... 150 cm. Preshrink
the fabric before cutting either
by pre-washing or by steam pressing.
If you choose a different fabric from
the one suggested in the magazine, allow
for matching up patterns and for
cutting with nap when calculating the
fabric requirement.

Choose the interfacing on the basis
of the fashion fabric's color, quality,
weight and care instructions.

Since the quality and stretch of elastics
vary, check the elastic lengths before
sewing .

Ifa zipper is not available in a desired
length, buy a longer zipper and shorten
it as shown in the illustration on
pattern sheet C.

Sewing

Read through the instructions before
you start sewing. If you wish, baste
and tryon the garment before sew-

SIZE CHART AND MEASURING



TAKING

THE MEASUREMENTS

It is hard to take your own measurements
and therefore you need a
friend to assist you . It is advisable to
take the measurements in front of a
mirror so that you can also see the
position of the tape measure at the
back.You will need a tape measure, a
pen and paper. You can print a meas


urement chart out from our website
at www.ottobredesign.com.You will
also need two fixed tapes, one round
the waist and the other round the
neck.You can make the tapes from a
4 cm wide strip of cotton fabric by
folding and pressing it in three and by
cutting it into required lengths.

Place the waistline tape exactly horizontally
round your waist and secure
it firmly with a safety pin. Place the
other tape round your neck so that
you can easily slide your finger between
the tape and your neck.The

ing.To make sewing easier, the instructions
have been written on the basis
of techniques used in the clothing
industry.The terms "inner"/"outer"
and "Ieft"/"right" refer to the garment
when worn.

Finish off the construction seams of
the garment as you sew, even if the
instructions do not specifically mention
this. To finish off seams you can
either use a serger or a machine zigzag
stitch. On knit fabrics, stitch the
seams using a machine stretch-stitch
or a serger. No separate seam finish
is necessary. Seams inside a lined garment
do not necessarily have to be
finished .

Hems (e.g. at the garment's lower
edge or sleeve edges) are made by
turning under the seam allowance and
topstitching close to the edge. The
width of the hem and the seam allowance
is given in brackets;for example
"sew hem (2 cm + I cm)" means that
the hem allowance is 2 cm and the
seam allowance I cm.

Iron the garment seams as you sew
and give the garment a final pressing
when it is completed.

Practical tips

Gathering: Decrease the upper thread
tension and increase the stitch length
(stitch length 4...5). Sew two rows of
gathering stitches 0.5 cm apart from
each other on the right side of the
edge to be gathered, placing one row
on the seam line and the other within
the seam allowance. Leave long thread
ends. Gather the fabr ic by pulling simultaneously
on both bobbin threads
and spreading the gathers between
your fingers evenly over the required
length. The gathered edge is stitched
in place between the gathering stitches
using a regular straight stitch.

Easing: Easing stitches are sewn as
gathering stitches but the bobbin
threads are pulled just enough to
make the edge curve slightly (e.g. in
set-in sleeve caps) .

WOMEN Height 168 ± 4 em regular fit

Size 34363840424446485052

I. Bust

80 84 88 92 96 100 104 110 116 122

2. Hip


90 93 96 99 102 106 110 115 120 125

3. Waist
646770 747882 869197103

4. Outseam length
106 106 106 107 107 107 107 107 108 108

5. Shoulder width 13.0 13.1 13.2 13.3 13.5 13.7 13.9 14.2 14.4 14.6
6. Sleeve length 59.3 59.7 60 60.2 60.4 60.6 60.8 61 61.2 61.4
7. Back width 33.9 34.7 35.6 36.5 37.6 38.6 39.6 40.8 42.0 43.2
8. Upper arm eire. 24.9 26.2 27.5 28.8 30.1 31.4 32.8 34.2 35.6 37
9. Back waist length 40.4 40.6 40.9 41.1 41.3 41.5 41.7 41.9 42.1 42.3

You can find this chart with measurements in inches on pattern sheet A.

tape will thus be set at the base of
your neck.

For taking the measurements, you
should stand upright with a relaxed
posture with arms hanging free at the
sides.The measurements are taken on
top of underwear (panties and a lightweight
camisole or a bra) close to the
body, yet not too tight .

Height

Stand up with your back and heels
against a wall and let your assistant
make a mark on the wall at the top
of your head, using a straight angle

(e.g. a book).Your height is the distance
measured from the floor to the
marking.

Bust

Measure horizontally round the body
with the tape measure running under
the arms across the full bustline and
across the shoulder blades .

Waist

Measure round the waist without the
fixed waistline tape .

Hip

Measure horizontally round the seat
(usually the fullest part of the hip).

Outseam length

Measure the distance from the waistline
to the floor (measure from the
lower edge of the waistline tape).

Shoulder width

Measure the distance from the base
of the neck to the point of the shoulder.


Sleeve length

Measure from the point of the shoulder
to the wrist, with the tape measure
running over the elbow. Take the
measurement with the arm slightly
bent.

Back waist length

Measure from the base of the neck
to the waist, to the lower edge of the
fixed waistline tape.

The measurements in the size chart
are taken on the body. The patterns
include the necessary allowances
for ease of movement.The
patterns in the magazine have been
designed for a person with a height
of 164-172 cm. If you are considerably
shorter or taller, make the necessary
alterations to the patterns before
cutting the garment pieces out.
Points to be checked are the centerback
length of a blouse or top as well
as the sleeve and leg length.

©Thedesigns.patterns,instructions,photosandarticlesinthismagazineareprotectedunder internationalcopyrightlaws.Professional,industrialandcommercialuseofthematerialandmanufacture under licenseisonlypossibleundera
writtenagreementwith thecopyrightholder.For furtherinformation.contactusinwriting,address:Studio TuurnarOy.PL2216.FI·9620IRovanierni.Finland. OnOBREdesign®orStudioTuumatOyhasnoobligation
to compensate for possible financial lossesresulting from misprints or other errors on the pattern sheet or in the instructions. Copyright © StudioTuumat Oy, Rovanierni.Finland



I. Linnea linen knit top 34-36-38-40-42-44-46-48-50-52 Page 29

with straight stitch and finish them with
MATERIALS serger.

Stabilizing: Cut pieces of stay tape for
shouider edges on back panel (measure
-75-75-75-75-75-75-150-150-155


155 cm linen knit (L1),

1

required length of tape on pattern piece

2

width 115 cm
and add seam allowances). Fuse tapes to • 100 .. . 125 cm clear elastic tape, wrong side of shoulder seam allowances.

width 5 mm, Framilon®
Joining: Stitch shoulder seams and side -20 ... 30 cm stay tape,
seams.Cut piecesofclear elastictape Vlieseline® Formband

...-


for armhole edges (measure length of
tape on pattern pieces and add seam
allowances). Machine-baste clear elastic

CUTTING

tapes to wrong side of armhole seam PATTERN PIECES cut
allowances. Fold and pin hems arou nd
Cut garment pieces from knit as indicated armholes, neckline and bottom hem and I fronton list of pattern pieces.

stitch them with serger coverstitch or 2 back

with twin needle on regular sewing

SEWING

machine.
Constructiontechniques:Stitchseams PATTERN SHEETA orange

2. Scooter capri pants 34-36-38-40-42-44-46-48 Page 29


CUTTING

C ut garment pieces fro m fabric as
indicated on list of pattern pieces. Copy
pattern markings for zipper placket on
side seam edges of right pants front and
back panels.

SEWING

Construction techniques: Stitch seams
with straight stitch and finish them with
serger or zigzag stitch.

Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for shaped
facingsand outer pocket-flap pieces and
fuse them in place. Cut pieces of stay
tape for bottom edges of yoke panels
(measure required lengths of tape on
pattern pieces and add seam allowances).
Fuse tapes to seam allowances on yoke
panels.

MATERIALS

-100-105-1 10-1 15-130-140155-
160 cm
stretchy linen/viscose fabric
(L1/CV/EL), width 125 cm

-25 cm interfacing.
Vlieseline G 785
-90...120cm staytape,

Vlieseline® Formband
-invisible zipper, length 20 cm
-2 buttons, 0 22 mm

Pocket flaps: Pin pocket flap pieces together
in pairs, right sides facing, and
stitch bottom and side edges. Trim seam
allowances across corners and press
seams open gently with point of iro n.
Turn flaps right side out. Press flaps flat
and topstitch their outer edges I cm
from edge. Machine-baste pocket flaps
to top-edge seam allowances on pants
front panels as marked on pattern.

Jo ining: Pin pants front and back panels
together and stitch leg inseams. Pin and
stitch crotch seam. Stitch yoke panels to
pants front and back panels, right sides
together. Fold and press seam allowances
gentlytowardyokes.Topstitehyoke seam
using presser-foot edge as guide. Finish

raw side-seam edges. Stitch left side seam
from bottom-leg vent to waist edge.

3.Azzurro silk top

MATERIALS

-130 cm pr inted lightweight
silk satin (105 g per linear
meter), width 135 cm

-70 cm viscose lining fabric,
width 145 cm
-200... 230 cm stay tape,
Vlieseline® Formband
-invisible zipper, length 30 cm

34-36-38-40-42-44-46-48

~

:?:>~*..


. ... ... ".. ... :

.." ..-/ / ...:

" -.. :

.." /:

...... ".. :

.......":



Open zipper. Pin and stitch left zipper
tape to right side-seam edge on pants
back panel, using invisible zipper foot .
Stitch the other zipper tape to pants front
panel in the same way. Ciose zipper and
stitch pants right side seam from bottom
of zipper placket down to bottom-leg
vent. Press side seams ope n.

Waistline: Pinshaped facings for front
and back together, right sides facing, and
stitch left side seam. Finish raw bottom
edge of shaped facing. Stitch right-hand
side edges of shaped facing to edges of
zipper placket, with zipper between yoke
and shaped facing and placing stitching
5 mm away from stitching line that
attaches zipper. Pinshaped facing to pants
waistedge,rightsidestogether (foldseam
allowances on edges of zipper placket


Page 10

'il

J

PATTERN PIECES cut
I pants front 2
2 pants back 2
3 fr ont yoke I
4 back yoke I
5 shaped facing for front I
6 shaped facing for back I
7 pocket flap 2+2

PATTERN SHEET A black

toward shaped facing).Stitch waist seam.
Fold waist seam allowances toward
shaped facing and understitch them to
facing close to seamline. Turn corners of
zipper placket right side out. Pin bottom
edge of shaped facing to pants. Stitch
shaped facing in place from right side of
pants by stitching-in-the-ditch along yoke
seamline.

Finishing: Foldup, press and stitch hems
at bottom edges of legs. Fold and press
self-facings on edges of side vents to
wrong side and stitch them to pants legs
along their outer edges. Sew buttons on
pocket flaps, securing flaps to pants at
the same time.

PATTERN PIECES cut
'....

Shell Lining

I front II
2 back II
3 draped panel I

PATTERN SHEET B black



3.Azzu rro silk top


CUTTING

Pre-shrink the fabrics before cutting,
observing the manufacturer's washing
instructions.

Cut front and back panels from both silk
(shell) and liningfabric. Copy out pattern
piece for draped panel as a whole (see
small-scale pattern) and cut draped panel
from silk on true bias. Mark dart
placements on front and back panels by
hand basting . Mark top end of zipper
placket with notches on right side-seam
edges of front and back panels. (Notch =3 mm deep clip into seam allowance
on fabric edge.)

SEWING

Construction techniques: Stitch seams
with straight stitch. No seam finish is
necessary as the garment is fully lined.

Stabilizing: Cut pieces of stay tape for
neck and armhole edges of shell front
and back panels (measure required lengths

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